The Memory Road by Watercolor
Embark on a vibrant journey through the south of Morocco, captured in a series of enchanting watercolor paintings by Sophie Rayal. Explore the artist’s soulful depiction of Morocco’s diverse landscapes and our Memory Road experience from Agadir to Guelmim through Tizkmoudine, Tata and the Sahara. The watercolors reveal hidden villages, palm-lined oases, and the rich textures of Berber life.
First stop, the House of Argan Trees
Perched like an eagle’s nest in a hamlet of three shepherd families, living to the rhythm of pastures, it unveils breathtaking views of the valley from its hillside terraces. A few kilometers from Agadir, the House of Argan Trees will be your first stop.
After meeting your host at the airport, you will travel on the caravan route, vast steppes dotted with cactus, rocks, and argan trees. Here, several options are available to you. Take the time to acclimate yourself to this splendid two-level stone building, with its lounge, terraces, and three bedrooms.
Second stop, the village of Tizkmoudine.
Change of atmosphere 3.5 hours away. After lunch in the grain silo of Ifri Imadidane, enter this Berber village at the doorstep of the desert. A few years ago, the inhabitants of Tizkmoudine decided to revive the old ksar, abandoned for half a century. Each alley promises an epic journey into the past. Open a door, and you’ll discover the remains of a bourgeois house, the wonders of a mosque, a museum, or the bustling creative arts center for children. Further on, in the village square, a tasting of bread from traditional ovens awaits you before having tea with the women of the weaving cooperative, heirs to a precious craft. Staying in this abandoned village is the quintessence of immersive hospitality. More than just a one or two-night stop, it’s an experience at the heart of ancient Moroccan culture. A time of discovery, exchange, and authentic sharing with the local community. Without electricity, the three rooms are illuminated by candles and lanterns, with a wood stove for warmth at night. In such a setting, it’s hard not to succumb to contemplating the starry night.
Third stop, the Red House
Surrounded by mountains at the bottom of the Awju valley, the Red House is not within reach of the disoriented tourist. From the village of Tizkmoudine, it takes 1.5 hours to reach it. A fabulous journey through the foothills of the Anti-Atlas, to the hot water source marking the heart of the old part of the village where the building stands. Where trees are scarce, the rock plays with the sun, enveloping itself in a palette ranging from black to bright orange.
This house, built from the same red rock as the outcrops it dominates, belongs to a traveler who decided to settle there and enjoy simple pleasures. Stop under an almond tree to read or daydream, with a panorama of the nearby mountains. And explore the riches of the past in Aït-Kin or Timliline, two neighboring villages that have preserved their 18th-century grain silos intact.
Fourth stop, the Acacia Camp
Heading into real adventure, not far from the Algerian border, the town of Fam el-Hisn (a 2-hour drive from the Red House) heralds the vast Saharan ergs. Around a splendid acacia, three khaimas, traditional Mauritanian tents, have been set up by your team. With its trunks and comfortable cushions, one could almost believe it’s a mirage. In the Acacia Camp, nomadism takes on its luminous attire.
The rhythm changes once again. The concept of time dissolves. Cave paintings bear witness to human presence in the area 12,000 years ago. Around the fire, exchanges become more intimate. After watching the sun set atop a large dune, settle in for a dinner you won’t soon forget. In the absolute calm of this untouched environment, verses from Henri Michaux come to mind: “The desert, having given no competition to the sand, great is the peace of the desert.”
Fifth stop, the Oasis House
Back to civilization. After thirty minutes on the track and an hour’s drive, lunch awaits you in the heart of the millennia-old granary of Amtoudi. Then, rejoin the camel route towards Assa and Fask to discover your new abode, surrounded by palm trees. In the Oasis House, the mood is languid. The two small villas, inspired by the Berber culture, showcase local materials and craftsmanship. Moucharabiehs, cream-colored lounges, precious fabrics, and carved wooden stools: A Sahara tea meets Out of Africa.
Here again, you are the masters of the program. Enjoy your earthen house topped with a Bedouin tent or go with a guide for a crossing, on foot or by bike, of the palm grove. At nightfall, musicians chant melodies inspired by Mauritanian Sufi songs. A legacy of the caravans that made a stop in Guelmim, a few kilometers from Tighmert, the epicenter of gold and spice trade. Stay one more night, and you’ll appreciate a memorable open-air cinema experience.